A Road Trip Through Tennessee from Nashville to Knoxville, Following in the Footsteps of American Music

Tennessee Itinerary, Day 1—Nashville, the Music Capital

8:30 a.m. – Breakfast at the Fairlane Hotel

To kick off our Nashville experience, we check into the Fairlane Hotel, a luxury boutique hotel housed in a former office building downtown. With a welcome glass of champagne, retro-chic decor, and a 10th-floor room overlooking the Nashville skyline, this charming hotel is the perfect place to catch your breath before setting out to explore Music City. At Modern Love, the hotel’s restaurant, breakfast is generous and comforting: scrambled eggs with salmon, scones, coffee… and even a mimosa to start the day off on the right note.

Fairlane Hotel
81 rooms, rates starting at 224 euros per night
401 Union Street, Nashville

10 a.m. — Dive into the history of country music at the Country Music Hall of Fame

No trip to Tennessee is complete without a visit to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. With its vast collection of instruments, costumes, photographs, and memorabilia, the museum chronicles several decades of American music. The permanent exhibition “Sing Me Back Home” traces the history of country music, while temporary exhibits are featured throughout the museum. In the spring of 2026, “Dolly Parton: Journey of a Seeker” looked back on the career and world of the woman who remains one of the figures most closely associated with Tennessee.

It’s also hard to miss the Taylor Swift Education Center, dedicated to music education and outreach. There, visitors can try their hand at songwriting or step into the shoes of an artist through an interactive recording experience. Another surprising highlight: the giant guitar and, above all, the “Will the Circle Be Unbroken” rotunda. At its center, a specially designed space amplifies the echo of your voice. It takes just a few words to realize that, here too, the acoustics can become an attraction in their own right.

Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum
222 Fifth Avenue South, Nashville

12:30 p.m. - Lunch at the Assembly Food Hall

For a quick lunch while continuing to explore Nashville, head to Assembly Food Hall, a huge space dedicated to local cuisine and international dishes. It’s the perfect opportunity to try one of the city’s iconic specialties: Nashville hot chicken, fried chicken (more or less) generously seasoned with chili peppers. We tried it at Prince’s, served with fries: an experience best reserved for thrill-seekers (we personally opted for the “mildest” level).

Assembly Food Hall
5055 Broadway Place, Nashville

Nashville - Prince’s hot chicken © DR

2:00 p.m. - The Ryman Auditorium, the “Mother Church of Country Music”

It’s just a few minutes’ walk to the Ryman Auditorium, arguably one of Nashville’s most historic sites. Originally built as a religious gathering place in the late 19th century, the building has become one of the most legendary venues in American music. Notably, the Grand Ole Opry called it home from 1943 to 1974. The tour offers a behind-the-scenes look and features exhibits dedicated to the figures who have left their mark on the venue. Houdini, Rowlf the Dog, and even Clint Eastwood are among the surprising memorabilia on display. But perhaps the most impressive part is stepping onto the stage. For a few moments, visitors find themselves standing in the very spot where generations of artists have performed.

Ryman Auditorium
116 Fifth Ave N, Nashville, TN 37219

4:00 p.m. — Broadway, cowboy hats, and honky-tonks

It’s time to step out of the museums and experience Nashville at its liveliest. On Broadway, neon signs, Western-themed shops, and bars filled with live music line the street. People come here to listen to a band, have a drink, dance… or pick up a few souvenirs. For us, it’ll be a cowboy hat decorated with stars and a pair of boots. After all, it’s hard to visit Nashville without at least embracing the local dress code a little!

To explore the world of honky-tonks, a few historic spots like Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, Robert’s Western World, or Acme Feed & Seed give you a sense of just how important these bars are to the city’s musical culture.

5:30 p.m. — Singing, Dancing, and Understanding African American Influence

Country music is just one part of Tennessee’s musical history. The National Museum of African American Music sheds light on the fundamental influence of African American artists on the American musical landscape.The museum is dedicated to the history and preservation of music created, influenced, or inspired by African Americans—from gospel to blues, from jazz to R&B and hip-hop. Here, the visit is anything but contemplative. You create your own playlist, take part in a group dance routine, and—in a particularly memorable experience—sing “Oh Happy Day” with a gospel choir. It’s a particularly lively way to understand that American musical genres are far from being separate worlds.

National Museum of African American Music
510 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203

7:00 p.m. — One Last Dose of Johnny Cash

A change of atmosphere at the Johnny Cash Museum, dedicated to one of Nashville’s other giants. Costumes, photographs, instruments, and personal memorabilia: the exhibition traces the career of the Man in Black and his ties to Nashville. Admission is a bit pricey—$30—but you won’t leave empty-handed: a mug stamped with “CASH” will find its way into your luggage.

Johnny Cash Museum
119 3rd Ave S, Nashville, TN 37201-2032

8:30 p.m. - Brisket and banana pudding at Edley's Bar-B-Que

After a day devoted to music, it’s time for another Tennessee institution: barbecue. At Edley’s Bar-B-Que, order the brisket, served with banana pudding—which is worth the trip all on its own. The food is hearty, comforting, and deeply rooted in Southern culture.

Edley’s Bar-B-Que
2706 12th Ave S, Nashville, TN 37204

10 p.m. — An Evening at the Grand Ole Opry

The day ends where it was almost bound to end: at the Grand Ole Opry. In 2026, the institution will celebrate its centennial with “OPRY 100.” During our visit, the “Opry Country Classics” program featured bluegrass in particular, with The Gatlin Brothers, Charlie Worsham, Rhonda Vincent, and Dailey & Vincent. For a few hours, fiddles, guitars, vocal harmonies, and gospel music reminded us why Nashville truly deserves its nickname, Music City. And because Tennessee takes such meticulous care to preserve its musical identity down to the smallest detail, even the crosswalks seem to be part of the soundtrack: here, the audible signal sounds like a bird chirping.

Grand Ole Opry
600 Opry Mills Drive, Nashville, Tennessee 37214

Day 2 - From Nashville to Rugby, in the Footsteps of Tennessee's Ghosts

8 a.m. – Hit the road heading east

After Nashville, the scenery changes completely. A roughly three-hour drive takes you to eastern Tennessee and the Appalachian Mountains. First stop: Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, a former prison turned tourist attraction, before continuing on to Rugby, a small historic community founded in the 19th century.

11:30 a.m. - Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, “the end of the line”

Built in the late 19th century deep in the mountains, Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary closed its doors in 2009 after more than a century of operation. Nicknamed “the end of the line,” it housed, among others, the inmates considered the most dangerous in the state, including James Earl Ray, the assassin of Martin Luther King Jr. A tour of the prison allows visitors to explore the old prison buildings, cells, and disciplinary quarters, as well as to get a sense of what daily life was like in those particularly harsh conditions. And Brushy has its own share of unusual stories: in the early 1970s, a young fawn reportedly fell from a cliff into the prison yard. The inmates took it in, named it Geronimo, and adopted it as their mascot. The animal quickly began to behave like one of them, sometimes even falling asleep in a cell. It’s a surprisingly heartwarming story set within one of Tennessee’s most feared correctional facilities.

As for the ghosts, they seem to have remained at Brushy: even today, the site claims to be one of the most haunted places in the state. During the tour, paranormal events kept piling up. A camera mysteriously stopped working, a phone suddenly ran out of battery—it’s hard to tell where technology ends and ghosts begin...

Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary
9182 Hwy 116, Petros

1:00 p.m. - Lunch at the Warden's Table

Lunch is served on site at Warden’s Table, the prison’s former, quirky restaurant. It’s a rather unique way to continue immersing yourself in the prison’s history.

3:00 p.m. - Moonshine and whiskey at the Brushy Mountain Distillery

The tour continues at the Brushy Mountain Distillery with a tasting of flavored whiskey and moonshine. Moonshine, a traditional Appalachian spirit, is one of those products that, on its own, tells a story of American history: the story of moonshiners, family recipes, and mountain culture.

4:30 p.m. - Break at Tanners

On the way to Rugby, stop at Tanners Historic Café & Ice Cream Shop. Here, you’ll immediately feel as if you’ve stepped back in time. The building, constructed in 1906 as Morgan County’s first bank, has been home to the Tanner family business since 1923, which has become a true local institution over the decades. Restored in 2019 and reopened in 2022, the café has retained its original pharmacy cabinets, counter, bench seating, and vintage soda fountain. Today, people come here for lunch or simply to enjoy an ice cream, but above all to experience the spirit of the old neighborhood café where, generation after generation, locals and visitors gathered to catch up on the latest news and spend time together.

Tanners Historic Café & Ice Cream Shop
205 N Kingston St, Wartburg

5:30 p.m. - Beer and coffee at MoCo Brewing Project

At MoCo Brewing Project, a couple of former military members have set up a brewery and a coffee business. This venture perfectly illustrates the entrepreneurial spirit of this part of Tennessee: small, independent spots, often driven by personal stories, that give the trip a more human touch.

MoCo Brewing Project
513 Court St, Wartburg,

7:00 p.m. - Staying overnight at Linda's house in Rugby

In Rugby, the Grey Gables Bed & Breakfast is much more than just a place to stay for the night. Housed in a Victorian home filled with antiques, the place seems to have been left behind by time. Its ten rooms blend Victorian elegance with kitschy country charm, in keeping with the spirit of this remarkable community founded in the 19th century by English intellectuals on the Cumberland Plateau.

But what truly makes Grey Gables so charming is Linda, the owner. At 88 years old, she welcomes her guests with a spontaneous generosity that immediately makes them feel like family. We sit down to the dinner she’s prepared, listen to her stories, discover that she’s even published her own cookbooks, and very quickly, the line between bed-and-breakfast and family home disappears. With her old cat Buttercup wandering through the house, her memories, and the way she takes care of her guests, Linda gives you the delightfully comforting feeling of going on vacation to stay with your own grandmother.

Grey Gables Bed & Breakfast
Highway 52, P.O. Box 52, Rugby

8:00 p.m. - Irish Road Bowling: Bowling… on the road

In Rugby, even the most unlikely traditions become excuses to get together. So we tried our hand at Irish Road Bowling, a traditional Irish game that involves rolling a heavy iron ball down a country road and completing a set course with as few rolls as possible. It’s a sort of mix between pétanque, bowling, and shot put—but with the road serving as the playing field! The tradition is particularly alive in Rugby, where Historic Rugby regularly organizes games open to everyone, residents and visitors alike. Teams are formed on the spot in a very friendly atmosphere, and everyone takes turns rolling the ball as far as possible. In Rugby, the course winds leisurely along the road past historic houses; you simply have to shout “CAR!” when a car approaches to clear the way. It’s a rather irresistible way to get to know the community in a different light.

10 p.m. - Rugby After Dark: The Ghosts Take Over

When night falls, Rugby takes on a completely different look. The “Rugby after Dark Tour” takes visitors through the streets and into some historic homes, by the light of lanterns. The guides share stories about the community, deaths, unexplained phenomena, and alleged apparitions. Special equipment is even used to attempt to communicate with the spirits. Margaret, Tiffany, and a few other alleged presences then become the stars of the evening. An experience best suited for fans of the paranormal… or for those who aren’t afraid to sleep in an old Victorian house afterward.

Day 3 - From Rugby to Knoxville: The Other Side of Tennessee

8 a.m. – Breakfast at R.M. Brooks General Store

Before hitting the road again, we had breakfast at the R.M. Brooks General Store, a local institution located just a few minutes from Rugby. Opened by R.M. and Nettie Brooks in the early 20th century, this store has been the social hub of the community for over a century. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it has weathered wars, the Great Depression, and the changing landscape of rural America without ever losing its soul.

The shop is now run by Tiffany, the founder’s great-granddaughter and Linda’s daughter, whom we met the day before at Grey Gables. The welcome here is as warm as it is at the family home: you can sample the famous fried pies made according to Linda’s recipes, as well as sandwiches with bologna or hoop cheese—a local specialty—while watching the locals gather over coffee. It’s a stop that gives you the rare feeling of stepping not into a store, but into a living piece of Appalachian history.

R.M. Brooks General Store
2830 Rugby Pkwy, Rugby

10:30 a.m. — Knoxville, Tennessee's other cultural capital

Although less well-known internationally than Nashville, Knoxville nevertheless boasts a particularly rich cultural identity. The Cumberland House Knoxville, a member of the Tapestry Collection by Hilton, is the perfect place to stay, located right across from World’s Fair Park and the Knoxville Convention Center. This trendy and design hotel charms guests as much with its location as with its decor, inspired by the world of fashion: patterns evoking fabrics, references to sewing patterns and tools, and graphic details reminiscent of designer ateliers… It’s an original way to pay homage to the region’s textile history while giving the hotel a contemporary identity. After checking in, head to The Tomato Head for a casual lunch before setting out to explore downtown and discover Tennessee’s other cultural side.

Cumberland House Knoxville
130 rooms, rates starting at 131 euros per night
1109 White Avenue, Knoxville

1:30 p.m. - Independent Bookstores and Art Galleries

Knoxville can also be explored through its independent businesses. The city participates in Independent Bookstore Day, and the galleries regularly update their art exhibitions. On the first Friday of every month, several downtown venues feature a specific artist. Places to visit include Arrowmont Gallery and Downtown Gallery.

3:00 p.m. — Glassblowing and brewing beer at Pretentious

One of Knoxville’s most unique experiences can be found at Pretentious Beer & Glass Co. On one side, artisans craft glass right in front of visitors. On the other, a brewery produces its own beers and is constantly launching new collaborations. You can even sign up for a workshop to try your hand at glassblowing. It’s an experience that reminds you that Tennessee is definitely more than just traditional tourist attractions.

Pretentious Beer & Glass Co.
133 S Central St, Knoxville

5:00 p.m. - The Tennessee Theatre

You can’t miss the Tennessee Theatre, a spectacular performance venue that opened in 1928. With its marble, chandeliers, decorative details, and the atmosphere of a grand American theater, the building is almost as impressive as the shows performed there. During our visit, the lineup included the Broadway musical *The Outsiders*.

Tennessee Theatre
604 South Gay Street, Knoxville

6:30 p.m. - Understanding the History of East Tennessee

To put Knoxville and the surrounding region into context, head to the East Tennessee History Center. The tour spans several centuries of history: the Cherokee people, David Crockett, Henry Knox, the founding of the State of Franklin, as well as slavery, the Civil War, and the civil rights movement.

8:00 p.m. - Knoxville as seen from above from the Sunsphere

Built for the 1982 World’s Fair, the Sunsphere has become one of Knoxville’s most recognizable landmarks. This 266-foot-tall metal structure is topped by a golden sphere representing solar energy. It towers over World’s Fair Park and offers a spectacular view of the city and the Tennessee River.

Sunsphere
810 Clinch Ave, 4th Floor, Knoxville, Knoxville,

9:00 p.m. — Dinner at Vida, located in a former bank

For dinner, head to Vida, a restaurant housed in a former bank. The decor retains some of the building’s history, but the real surprise is in the basement.

Vida
531 S. Gay St., Knoxville

10:30 p.m. — Cocktail reception in the former vault room

To wrap up the evening, head to the Vault, a speakeasy housed in the bank’s former vault. Order a “Heartbreaker” cocktail and settle in behind the heavy doors that once protected customers’ savings. One last spot that sums up Knoxville pretty well: historic, creative, and a little offbeat.

Tennessee Itinerary, Day 4 — One Last Cup of Coffee Before Leaving Knoxville

9 a.m. — Breakfast at Potchke’s, the deli that gets Knoxville going

For one last breakfast, head to Potchke, a Michelin-recommended spot that pays homage to New York’s Jewish delis. Here, there’s no run-of-the-mill brunch: the menu, crafted by Chef Julie Herndon, draws on Ashkenazi culinary traditions and family memories, with a desire to blend grandma’s recipes with contemporary influences. The result is as generous as it is comforting: cinnamon babka, frittata, pastrami sandwiches, and other deli specialties make up a cuisine that certainly doesn’t aim to be understated. The very name of the restaurant, Potchke, is a nod to Yiddish and to the idea of taking the time to tinker, experiment, and get your hands dirty in the kitchen. It’s a philosophy reflected not only on the plate but also in the restaurant’s warm, no-frills atmosphere.

Potchke
318 N Gay St Suite 103, Knoxville

10:30 a.m. — South Knoxville and the Urban Wilderness: A Day in Nature

Our latest getaway takes us to South Knoxville, where Baker Creek Preserve—part of the vast Urban Wilderness—offers a completely different side of the city. Just a few minutes from the hustle and bustle of downtown, you’ll find yourself in the heart of a vast network of trails, forests, cliffs, and lookout points that spans several thousand acres. The Baker Creek area is particularly popular with outdoor enthusiasts: hiking, mountain biking, trail running, rock climbing, and walking allow visitors to enjoy the wooded landscapes characteristic of East Tennessee. Cyclists can explore the many single tracks in the Urban Wilderness, while hikers will find trails of varying difficulty levels, ranging from wooded paths to ridgelines offering stunning views of the city and the river.

And if you have a full day, you can continue on to the Ijams Nature Center area to explore the natural landscapes along the Tennessee River, try your hand at kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding, and then finish with a gourmet break in South Knoxville.

Baker Creek Preserve
3726 Sevier Heights Rd, Knoxville