Our opinion on the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract, eternity on the Nile

The pitch | Sofitel Legend Old Cataract, the legend

When arriving or departing from a cruise on the Nile, the Old Cataract, one of the world's most magical hotels, is the inevitable choice. Built in 1899 by Thomas Cook to accommodate wealthy travellers exploring the wonders of ancient Egypt at the turn of the century, its views over Elephantine Island are unforgettable. The Foundouk Kataract (Arabic for Cataract Hotel) welcomes its visitors in a blend of Arabo-Andalusian, Ottoman and British styles, with liveried doormen and a grandiose lobby, where you can imagine the great and the good of the world walking around in suits and hats. Watching the sun set and the Nile take on golden hues from the elegant terrace, while a traditional music group plays the lute and tabor, remains a poignant memory. Agatha Christie loved it so much that she lived at the 5-star hotel for almost a year in 1933, joining her archaeologist second husband. The suite that bears her name can be visited today, and rents for $10,000 a night in high season.

What's the hotel like?

Steeped in legend, it's full of names. Howard Carter, who discovered Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922, stayed here, as did Sir Winston Churchill, André Malraux and many rich and famous people whose portraits adorn the corridors. Today, sandals, waist-high bananas and caps have replaced the ornate canes and evening gowns of the European bourgeoisie, but the staff maintain a meticulous level of service that enables the venerable institution to retain its elegant, polished aura and ceremonious manners of another era, which we would be nostalgic about without having experienced. Some of them have been here for 30 years or more, like Mohamed at the bar, who greets guests with a hibiscus juice. Others, like Mahmoud at breakfast, have been here just a few months and already have the codes, and the livery. Red quftaan embroidered with gold arabesques, tarboush as headgear, Egyptian class.

"Above all, don't change the elevator. It's one of the wonders of the Old Cataract" urges Philippe de Rothschild in the guest book. Fortunately, the old sculpted cage with its chiselled glass still watches over the stairwell with its creaking steps. Memory of place. We can imagine Tsar Nicholas II of Russia using the dial telephone in one of the corridors, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry admiring the Art Nouveau paintings that still adorn the ceilings, Maggie Smith battling with the vintage shower mixer tap, King Farouk inviting his guests to the 1902 gourmet restaurant, where you can dine with the impression of dining in Cordoba's great mosque-cathedral. The gargantuan breakfast is also served in this decor designed by Henri Favarger and refreshed in 2011 by Sybille de Margerie. While today's luxury swears by marble and gold, the Old Cataract's is all about detail and patina. Even the new wing, inaugurated in 1961 to accommodate the Russian engineers who helped build the Aswan High Dam, does not manage to tarnish the aura of its predecessor, overshadowing it with its noble presence, while incorporating the amenities necessary for a contemporary palace: XXL gym open to the outside, gigantic spa, infinity pool reflecting the sunset over the Nile. You'd almost think the feluccas below were floating on its surface.

What are the rooms like?

Divided between the historic "Palace" building and the new "Nile", they all share large surface areas, high ceilings and breathtaking views, whether of the Nile or the meticulously-trimmed gardens. In the old wing, we admire the profusion of decorative details that today's investors would look askance at. The metal door handles and finely sculpted doorframes, the heavy braided curtains, the bouquets of flowers from the garden, the bathroom inlays and their mosaics... Magnificent, with the patina of time.

What makes the difference?

It's hard not to come back to the view. From our nest perched on the pink granite cliffs, the Nile rises up to the rooms, engulfs the eyes, the feluccas tack, the motorboats carry their load of passengers to Elephantine. The heat is oppressive, the sands of the Sahara loom large on the horizon, yet water is everywhere. Like an orientalist painting by Delacroix, the ruins of Khnoum's temple emerge behind the Nubian village in front of us, drawing us in. You concentrate on your book, yet the view makes you look up.

Good to know?

A guided tour starts every day at 4pm from the library and, if they're free, allows you to visit the Agatha Christie and Winston Churchill Suites. A private jetty allows you to borrow a boat and come and go with the flow of the Nile, without the hustle and bustle of the street.

Highlights?

The only historic hotel in Egypt to maintain its past grandeur. Why not borrow the words of its occupants to conclude? Egyptian actor Omar Sharif wrote "For my favorite hotel, my favorite city, in my favorite country and for as long as I live, thank you for the memories". And Belmondo added, more prosaically, "Exceptional view, warmest welcome, magnificent suite, unforgettable memories".