Villa Florentine: Our Take on the Revival of This Lyon Institution

Overview | Elevation

To have Lyon at your feet… This is easy for anyone familiar with the topography of the city, which is traversed by two rivers—the Rhône and the Saône converge here—and dominated by two hills: the Croix-Rousse (“the one that works”) and Fourvière (“the one that prays”). With all due respect to the silk weavers, the latter offers a broader perspective and takes in the entire cityscape; on a clear day, you can make out the peaks of the Alps… all the way to Mont Blanc. This serves as a reminder of how Lyon, since ancient times, has stood at a crossroads: Lugdunum was, in fact, founded on Fourvière and became the capital of the “Three Gauls.” During the Renaissance, the city benefited from the influence of wealthy banking families from across the Alps who settled along the banks of the Saône (now Vieux-Lyon). People from Milan, Genoa, and especially Florence shaped the city’s character, imbuing it with that Italian spirit and radiance that it has managed to preserve.

The Italian influence spread to the heights of Fourvière, where a convent was built in the 17th century, following the marriage of Henry IV and Marie de Medicis in Lyon. Four centuries and countless lives later, the building was converted into a 5-star hotel in Lyon—only fitting when you’re so close to the heavens. Tucked away along the Montée Saint-Barthélemy, the Villa Florentine reveals itself only if you take the time to approach it. Or if you linger downstream at the lookout point to contemplate this panorama of Lyon that you’ll never tire of.

What's the hotel like? | The Villa Florentine or Beauvallon at Home

Beauvallon Collection’s acquisition of the Villa Florentine in late 2025 resolved a peculiar paradox: although based in the Capital of Gaul, the hotel group did not operate any properties between the Rhône and Saône rivers, even though it was already present in Burgundy with a luxury hotel in Beaune (the Hostellerie Cèdre), Vinay (the Hostellerie Briquetterie), and Oyat! Good things come to those who wait, and its patience has been rewarded in the most perfect way: the Villa Florentine can indeed be considered the embodiment of the Lyon spirit. Perched on the slopes of the “hill where people pray,” from which it gazes lovingly out over the city, it is at once a heritage treasure, a temple to the art of living and gastronomy, and a haven of tranquility that values discretion.

There is no ostentation in these once-sacred spaces; nor is there any austerity. As the artistic director for this renovation, Joséphine Fossey opted for simplicity and, above all, unity—which was undoubtedly lacking in the former decor. Once past the entrance—now protected by monumental diamond-pointed door panels—the immensity (and majesty) of the space is all the more striking now that the walls have been restored to a pristine creamy white. This provides a perfect contrast to the dark woodwork of the front desk, door frames, and banisters. This chromatic duality of beige-greige-champagne versus brown-leather-chestnut will be skillfully applied across the various levels and wings of this luxury hotel in Lyon, with enough nuances and variety to avoid monotony. We must also commend the feat of having completed this restoration in just four months—especially since the team had to navigate the requirements of Bâtiments de France and the Historic Monuments Authority: the Villa Florentine holds the formidable distinction of being a listed building.

Let’s continue our overview: as your gaze drifts toward the high vaulted ceilings, your eye is drawn to the fresco painted above the mezzanine, depicting ancient star charts. It seems to watch over this English-style parlor with its billiard table and globe, from which one can see without being seen.

Below, the lobby extends into a cozy haven bathed in golden light: the tea room. Open to the general public, this cozy retreat offers a selection of refined Lydia Gautier teas paired with exquisite pastries created by Hippolyte Fedry, formerly of Monsieur Paul (Auberge du Pont de Collonges) and now the Villa’s pastry chef. His pavlova is divine.

The Rooms | Lyon on the Horizon

To speak of a rebirth here is no empty phrase! Villa Florentine took advantage of its renovation to do more than just spruce up the property; it gave its rooms and suites (now 36, up from 34, across eleven categories ranging from 23 to 128 m²) an identity that better reflects the spirit of the place. Building on the design philosophy established from the moment you enter, Joséphine Fossey highlights the spaciousness of the rooms by following the adage “less is more.” Every piece of furniture was designed by her firm, drawing inspiration from a monastic spirit—minus the austerity, of course. Minimalism thus competes with the elegance of a discreet yet refined decor: here, an antique engraving; there, two volumes of the collected works of Aragon and Elsa Triolet; elsewhere, a marble sculpture… An eclectic collection, lovingly hunted down by the interior designer.

By adopting this understated approach, Joséphine Fossey allows the natural beauty of the fine materials—such as Burgundy stone and solid oak—to shine through, along with the silks borrowed from the Maison Prelle archives and the mosaics by Fabio Bordi. Above all, she draws the eye to what makes each room or suite unique: its view of Lyon, Fourvière, and the interior gardens of Villa Florentine.

During our stay, we enjoyed the cozy comfort of a Two-Bedroom Suite—which can accommodate up to four guests—featuring private bathrooms, one of which is equipped with both a shower and a bathtub.

A spacious separate living room, serving as an entryway, is the perfect spot to gather around the welcome tray and nibble on a few treats. Behind the curtains, the view of Lyon lives up to its promise, with the rooftops of the towers dusted with gold at dusk. On this sweltering summer evening, the easily adjustable air conditioning was much appreciated, as was the double shower, which provided a refreshing burst of coolness—thanks in part to the Apoticari products. The final reasons for a restful night’s sleep? The impeccable king-size bed and the evening Angelus herbal tea from the Carthusian monks waiting for us by our bedside. Just to stay in keeping with the dual regional and monastic theme…

Dining | The Art of Showcasing Local Flavors

Two restaurants in Lyon welcome guests: a fine-dining establishment (La Table de la Villa Florentine) and a bistronomic restaurant (Le Comptoir), both led by Henri Carlier. Having arrived from the Paris region, where he worked notably with Christian Le Squer (Le Cinq) and Hugo Bournis (Lucas Carton), and having spent time in Saint-Tropez with Arnaud Donckele (La Vague d’or), the new resident chef has found the ideal home at Villa Florentine to bring his gastronomic philosophy—marked by authenticity, infectious curiosity, and generosity—to life, leading a kitchen team assembled specifically for the occasion.

The menu at La Table opens with two words whose combination speaks volumes: “transmission” and “territory.” Honoring the legacy of culinary training, celebrating regional terroir, and innovating—always with the aim of surprising others and even surprising oneself. Always on the lookout for the best ingredients—and thus the best producers— Henri Carliera has, in record time, carried out exemplary sourcing: trout and char from Charles Murat in Beaufort, Isère (which we had already enjoyed at La Veyrie de Bernin during a weekend in Grenoble), aged cheeses from Mons in the Loire region, flowers and sprouts from Jean-Luc Raillon in the Drôme… not to mention the spent grain bread baked by the Saint-Paul bakery located just below. A special recipe created after the chef developed a taste for the creations of this renowned local artisan during the renovation work.

Dinner at La Table

During our visit, we had dinner at one of Lyon’s finest restaurants, La Table—open Tuesday through Saturday evenings and for Saturday lunch, and open to the general public. Three menus are offered—two four-course menus (“Découverte végétale” and “Traversée”) and one six-course menu (“Échappée”) —and we recommend letting the chef curate the sequence from his à la carte creations; any allergy or dietary restriction is addressed when the order is taken. As for the wine cellar, the menu will delight with its comprehensiveness, its food-and-wine pairing suggestions, and its selection of non-alcoholic beverages prepared by the chef and sommelier—an initiative that deserves to be emulated more widely.

We opted for the “Traversée,” which, quite logically, begins with a seafood course: a subtly flambéed Mediterranean amberjack served with a velvety sauce and accented with fresh and fermented cucumber.

This is followed by a rainbow trout that’s pearly on the outside and tender to the core (what mastery of cooking!), pairing flawlessly with the gently earthy flavors of celery purée and the lighter notes of a yuzu broth. The culinary journey continues toward more undulating flavor landscapes with Isère chicken roasted breast-side down, enhanced by a verjus sauce, a Chartreuse jelly, and fir tree buds, all beautifully accompanied by green beans grilled on a Japanese barbecue, crisp to perfection.

After an amaretto and roasted candied apricot treat that defies the laws of thermodynamics, a strawberry-based dessert is on the horizon. Seemingly nostalgic—it recreates the little tray from our childhood—this array of textures and flavors elevates the seasonal fruit from its raw state to ice cream, with a vinaigrette in between.

We’re more than happy to accept the invitation to nibble on the petit fours on the terrace: bathed in the light of the full moon, Lyon by night reveals new charms—perfect for a final refreshment in a contemplative atmosphere. If, however, you’re looking for a more intimate atmosphere, the armchairs at Segreto (the Villa’s speakeasy) beckon you in, and the mixologist presents his menu. A velvety ambiance, with deep crimson and rich brown tones, and soft lighting. Not to mention live piano on Thursday and Friday evenings…

It’s worth noting that breakfast is enjoyed in the setting of La Table, facing the sunrise. A 5-star continental breakfast is served at your table—where we, of course, couldn’t resist the Florentine egg with baby spinach! A note to Lyon’s foodies: the Sunday morning Florentine brunch (between 11 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.) gives you a real taste of what it’s all about.

What about wellness?

For its completely redesigned spa (hammam, sauna, treatment rooms, herbal tea lounge), the spa hotel in Lyon has formed a fruitful partnership with a brand-new natural botanical skincare brand: Apoticari.

Based in Le Puy-en-Velay, the brand draws on the aromatic and healing essence of its Auvergne region—guests can also enjoy its line of bath products in their rooms, a tribute to the delicate freshness of verbena. A fitness area (rowing machine, treadmill, exercise bike, etc.) rounds out the offerings. While the entire facility is open to both Villa guests and outside visitors (advance reservations are recommended), there is one exception: its famous outdoor pool. Located on the terrace, it offers—exclusively to residents—an enviable view of the Lyon skyline between laps.

What we loved about Villa Florentine:

• The refined elegance of this 5-star hotel, Lyon’s only Relais & Châteaux property 
• One of the most spectacular views of Lyon, far from the hustle and bustle of the Presqu’île 
• Chef Henri Carlier’s humanistic philosophy (watch out—he’s a true talent!); his celebration of local ingredients and his creativity, complemented by service that’s as attentive as it is warm 
• The pool on sunny days and the massive fireplace for winter, promising moments of cozy relaxation 
• A spirit of openness, transforming a sleeping beauty into a must-visit destination.

Getting There

From Paris Gare de Lyon to Lyon Part-Dieu or Lyon Perrache by TGV (2 hours). In warm weather, we highly recommend that travelers with light luggage take the metro from the station to the Villa Florentine: this way, they can ride the “Ficelle,” one of Europe’s oldest urban funiculars, which climbs up to Fourvière. From this station (or the “Minimes” station), it’s a pleasant 10-minute stroll downhill, with a breathtaking view of Lyon.

What is there to do near Villa Florentine?

That’s a question with probably too many answers! The Villa Florentine is ideally located for anyone wanting to explore the historic heart of the city during a weekend in Lyon: just a short walk from the ancient theaters of Fourvière (and the Lugdunum Gallo-Roman Museum, rich in archaeological remains), it sits slightly below the Notre-Dame de Fourvière Basilica… while overlooking Vieux-Lyon—the city’s historic district listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its Renaissance architectural marvels, the Primatial Church of Saint-Jean, its cobblestone streets, its ochre and terracotta facades, and its famous traboules. 

It’s easily accessible by walking down the many staircases winding up the hill. Take, for example, the Montée du Garillan, literally at the foot of the Villa Florentine, which leads to the iconic Gadagne Museum dedicated to the city’s history as well as the art of puppetry—after all, this is the neighborhood where Guignol was born!

Not far from there, nestled in the former Maison des Avocats, the Miniature and Cinema Museum will amaze^film enthusiasts with the breadth of its collections. Then cross the Saône, stop at Quai de la Pêcherie to browse the booksellers’ stalls, then head down the Presqu’île through its Haussmann-style streets (perfect for shopping) toward Place Bellecour, renowned as Europe’s largest pedestrian square. Above all, be sure to stop at an authentic Lyon bouchon, such as the Café du Jura or La Tête de Lard, to sample traditional local cuisine. And don’t worry about getting back up: there’s always the “Ficelle”…