We slept (divinely well) at Les Manoirs des Portes de Deauville

The pitch | Pierre Corneille was here

Rarely has the name of a hotel described its purpose so well. Les Manoirs des Portes de Deauville: that says it all. We are indeed here in a 16th-century manor house, located at the "gates" of the seaside town, just a ten-minute drive from the train station. A name that says it all... and nothing at the same time. Nothing about the fabulous destiny of this Deauville hotel, a former fisherman's residence where the playwright Pierre Corneille lived, the property having belonged to Guillaume Baldan, husband of his sister Marie. Nothing either of its ideal location: on the road to Pont-L'Évêque, next to the village of Canapville (enjoy this toponymy as only Normandy knows how to invent them), ten minutes from the town center, and five minutes from the most charming villages of the Pays d'Auge.

Overview | How is the hotel?

Once through the wooden gates, you enter a bucolic world, a dream destination for a nature weekend near Paris. A driveway lined with hydrangeas leads to a large wooded garden adjoining a wild-grass orchard. In this harmonious ecosystem, where nature has kept its rights, stands an old building that touches the heart at first glance. This half-timbered Normandy stone house has remained true to its era: from the entrance, the floor alternates between black flint tiles and old terracotta floor tiles, and a flight of charmingly irregular steps leads up to the upper floors.

If a hotel's 5 stars were measured by its charm and historic patina, Les Manoirs des Portes de Deauville would win hands down. But here's the thing. It lacks a fitness room, magnifying mirrors in the bathrooms and other purely factual criteria that prevent it from passing fifth. And in the end, it's all for the best.

The former home of Marie Corneille, now a classified Historic Monument, was first a fisherman's house, then a school in the XIXᵉ century - the bell at the entrance is a reminder of this. Bought by the French company BildInvest, it reopened in 2019 as a hotel in Normandy, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, that collection of boutique hotels we follow closely because it never disappoints.

As you climb the carved wooden staircase, you'll notice engravings on the walls: lines, dotted lines, geometric figures, sometimes dates or first names. Like hieroglyphs, these inscriptions are neither damage nor souvenirs left by customers, but testimonials to the past. Manager Vanessa Rivière, like an improvised historian, sets about deciphering them by consulting the archives. It's a titanic task, but one that may yet reveal its secrets and help us understand the meaning of these mysterious signs.

On the right as you enter, the salon Corneille, open from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m., welcomes guests from breakfast until the last conversations of the night. Its fireplace often crackles until early summer, as Normandy evenings know how to stay cool. An honesty bar pushes the self-service principle to the limit: alcohols and softs are available, calvados of course, but also whisky and wines... all from Normandy. All you have to do is write down the number of glasses or bottles consumed, and hand them in at reception.

No restaurant to speak of, but a snack menu and picnic baskets to order, made from local produce. Here, everything (or almost everything) you taste comes from Normandy producers: the Séraphin bakery in Pont-l'Évêque delivers its epic viennoiseries every day, available at your discretion all day long. As for beverages, apple juice - plain or sparkling - and Michel Bréavoine's two ciders (one traditional PDO brut, the other fruitier, rounder and slightly sweeter) invite you to sample them, and are also available for sale.

On the natural side, the estate extends over two hectares, punctuated by several outdoor spaces and lounges, as well as an orchard. Here, the expression "cocoon of greenery" is not overused: a corner of nature just laid out, a few hammocks and deckchairs, garden furniture in which to settle down, Le Cid in hand (a copy is available in the library of the large living room), to enjoy the different perspectives on the manor. Behind a curtain of poplars and willows stretches the preserved natural area of the Touques marshes, whose paths are accessible on foot from the hotel.

Perfectly positioned in the center of the estate, a swimming pool heated to 25°C from April to September invites you to relax. Next to it, a charming pool house, equipped with bistro tables, allows you to keep an eye on the children while enjoying a cup of coffee.

Bedrooms | Sleeping under the roof

Guests have a choice of accommodation options: 25 rooms and suites, divided between the manor house and its equally charming outbuildings, named after the buildings' former functions - the Forge, the Stable... Three private cottages, for one to three people, have their own terraces and are totally independent, with dedicated parking. Perfectly integrated into the natural environment, they benefit from all the manor's services.

While the exterior architecture plays on the Norman style, the interior opts for a rather refined, contemporary decor, punctuated by a few regional nods.

The room to book: unless you're looking for total autonomy, the experience is best enjoyed in one of the four rooms or suites located in the original manor house. Two of these, on the second floor, boast superb high ceilings, exposed beams and monumental fireplaces (purely decorative for security reasons). Decorated sparingly with a few pieces of antique furniture - it doesn't take much, with materials like these, to dress up a space - they reveal charming period details.

An antique wooden door (watch your head, we weren't very tall in the XVIᵉ century) opens onto a small living room-hallway and dressing room, extended by a modern, immaculate bathroom, with bathtub, towel dryer and a small window overlooking the garden. Charming.

5 things we loved about Les Manoirs des Portes de Deauville :

• The emotion of historical patina: observe the grooves in the wood, the period ironwork..
• The closeness to nature: wake up to birdsong.
• Breakfast pastries: fresh, crisp, irresistible - don't fight it, succumb.
• No spa... but a wellness area designed like a dream bathroom, with a huge Jacuzzi for four, sauna, relaxation lounge, bathrobes and amenities. Private 45-minute sessions.
• The impeccable welcome: Margot, the first receptionist from the region, knows and promotes the place with a great deal of naturalness and expertise.

What to see and do in the Deauville area?

Explore the paths of the Touques marshes
From the hotel, turn right past the old wash-house, then cross a field (bring good shoes) to reach the paths. Here you are in a wild, unspoilt... and deserted area: in the middle of summer, we didn't come across a soul. Nicknamed "la petite Camargue augeronne" because of the winter overflows of the Touques river, this wetland is home to an astonishing biodiversity: lapwing, mute swan, snipe... Most species can be seen in spring, some all year round. The marsh is one of the major stop-off points for birds in Calvados. But the real star of the show is the reinette, whose song resounds at dusk.
Please note: from December to March, the marsh may be flooded and therefore inaccessible. The trail is dotted with observation points, footbridges and meadows where placid Charolais graze, as curious as they are photogenic.

A good Normandy meal
This is perhaps the best-kept secret in the area. Just a stone's throw from the Hôtel du Calvados, Le Vieux Tour - an inn in its original state, with a well-kept dining room and cool pergola - has been operating in Canapville for 25 years. At the helm of this Deauville restaurant are Muriel and Franck Dugast. The chef goes to the market every day and cooks only local produce: Normandy beef, sweetbreads, Normandy lamb, fish from the boat Gros Loulou at the Deauville market, fresh vegetables... and cheeses matured by Maison Borniambuc. Normandy on a platter. All accompanied by homemade bread made with local flour. We savored a salad of melting, iodized langoustines, followed by a saint-pierre with aurora sauce - a delight of Normandy cream spiced up with summer tomatoes, and seared vegetables. When can we expect a Bib gourmand?