Irwin, quite simply

A successful flight

It's not easy to know when to leave the nest and fly solo. Especially when the nest is cosy and you've made yourself comfortable... With birds, there's no such thing as sentiment; with humans, it's a whole other torment. Irwin Durand, a gifted chef for others - first at Alan Geaam (where he won his first star in six months), then at Guy Savoy (where he kept it high at Chiberta) - had to ask himself a lot of questions before launching his own solo restaurant in Paris.

On the face of it, he was right to take the risk, as he already seems at ease in his own zen-like setting, surrounded by a close-knit, enthusiastic team that he has built up over the years and who have followed him on his adventure without batting an eyelid. At his side are Camille Larquemin, Executive Chef, Tessa Ponzo, Pastry Chef and Mickaël Larrive, Restaurant Manager and Head Sommelier.

The first impression on entering this restaurant in Paris 8th is one of great serenity, in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of the business district. The architecture, by JOD architecture (Jérome-Olivier Delb), plays with light and shadow to create a kind of chiaroscuro, conducive to calm and hushed confidences. Materials have been meticulously chosen - like the burnt wood that seduced the chef during a stay in Copenhagen - or the marble art of Wilfried Rouissi, which brings a contemporary touch to the whole. "Two rooms, two atmospheres": the first, uncluttered, welcomes twenty-two guests in a sober, refined setting, where the emphasis is on the gustatory experience. The second, more exclusive, is a single table for eight to ten guests, facing the chef's open kitchen, which he sees "as a game table for me and a pleasure table for the guests". In other words, whether they want a cromesquis or a good blanquette, anything is possible! So let's get down to business.

Beautiful paths

For lunch that day, we chose to take the "Rue du Bac", in memory of the years the chef spent at the Atelier Joël Robuchon. A Corsican amuse-bouche to start, with a migliacciu (with semolina and bruccio, topped with olive oil and sprinkled with rosemary) that was a success, like a shot of herbaceous freshness. Accompanied by a cold vegetable and marjoram broth, it's a perfect warm-up for the next course. This one, "Langoustine à la flamme, haricots verts, caviar" remains in the freshness of the moment, but with a nice added complexity. As for the "Maigre de ligne de Royan, Grenobloise, Poireau Braisé", it seduces with the air of not touching it, with a perfectly executed Grenobloise sauce. Behind the apparent simplicity, you can feel the chef's rigor, a true art of sauciery and quite a bit of modernity.

The double-cooked sweetbreads, "with milk to relax, with butter for love" as Irwin Durand so beautifully puts it, are unfortunately a little undercooked this time, but well accompanied by fevettes, peas, caramelized onions and reduced veal jus, which the Chiroubles chosen by the sommelier perfectly enhances. A very pretty dish.

The sweet part of this tasting menu ends on a high note. Remember the name of young pastry chef Tessa Ponzo, she'll go far. Her pre-dessert, a stunning monochrome of white, plays with lactic acids: fermented milk chantilly, sage-infused crème crue, yoghurt ice cream, a veil of roasted almond milk and that delicate, crisp milk skin that wins you over. For the dessert itself, Tessa offers us a veritable ode to vanilla, with a creation that's all roundness and gourmandise. Gavotte, miso cream, Pompona vanilla ice cream, hazelnut praline with smoked Tanzanian vanilla, milk jam. A real favorite! When it comes to "mignardises" to accompany coffee, Tessa Ponzo knows her stuff. We're no longer hungry, but it's impossible not to be tempted by her strawberry and Nyons olive tartlet, with rosemary-infused chantilly.

The service is absolutely charming. Each member of the brigade comes to present his or her creations in the dining room, with great gentleness, precision and pride. You leave the table feeling totally reassured. A rare experience.

Prices: Menus in 3, 5 and 7 "paths", named after the streets followed by the chef along his career path: Mesnil: €68, lunch only; Rue du Bac: €115; Quai de Conti: €160.

Things to remember

At the age of 35, chef Irwin Durand has taken the plunge and opened his first restaurant. An attractive, discreet table d'auteur that has already been spotted by the neighborhood's (many) gourmets. And, we're sure, it won't escape the scrutiny of the Guide Rouge.

Irwin
Open Monday to Friday, lunch and dinner
22 rue Cambacérès, 75008 Paris
irwin.paris