Gemellus, singular plural

The Le Meur twin brothers - Maxime in the kitchen, Clément in the business - opened their first business two years ago in the 7th arrondissement and, not looking for something new, simply decided to call it Gemellus. While it's already time for them to inaugurate a bis bistro named "Attabler", let's take a look back at this chic table, which isn't as classic as it looks.

A cozy cocoon

Little or nothing remains of the former pizzeria. The pizza oven has been replaced by a beautiful, well-lit cellar, and the whole space has been completely redesigned in a gastro style. Thick carpet, sand-colored walls, velvet chairs, black coffered ceiling and Murano chandelier. The touch of modernity and fantasy is in the details. In this case, raw, unclothed tables, leather seating to great effect, modern paintings on the walls and a small Ferrari on the ceiling, a nod to the chef's passion for cars.

It's plush and hushed, but not as smooth as the Avenue Duquesne surroundings might lead you to believe. Like the chef's cuisine?

Artisan saucier with a touch of wizardry

An accomplished disciple of the great Jean-Pierre Vigato, from the gourmet restaurants Apicius and Lapérouse, before moving on to the George V and L'Affable, Maxime Le Meur is an outstanding technician, a lover of good produce, but above all an excellent saucier. In fact, he thinks of all his dishes in terms of the carefully crafted sauce, and not the other way around.

On the 4 nuances lunch menu (presented in the form of a real color chart), a splendid dish stands out in this spirit: "Mallard/lobster/celery, sliced bisque with mallard juice". Gourmandise, liveliness, texture, precision of cooking and competitive bisque. It's all there.

It's worth noting that the chef, in addition to his sure taste for full-bodied juices and glazed sauces, is also a master of the land-sea pairing. In fact, it's one of the hallmarks of "Le Meur". In other words, the reconciliation of Maxime's Breton origins and his apprenticeship in Grenoble. A journey that ends in style with this "Hazelnut / Caramel / Praline Cream of roasted choux pastry", an elegant and light revisiting of a bistro Paris-Brest.

As for the dining room and wine list, it's nicely danced by the charming Laurent, a dining room director like a ballet director, in a choreography full of energy and aptness, served on a smiling tray. A most pleasant experience. While this chic restaurant has already been awarded a fine 14.5 by Gault&Millau, we're also waiting for a sign from the red guide. It would be well deserved.

A la carte: starters around €25, main courses €42, desserts €18
Menus Tout en nuances
Lunch: 2 shades (€32), 3 (€45) / 4 (€62)
Dinner 5 nuances (€80) / 7 (€100)

Things to remember

Opened two years ago, this Gemellus has asserted itself in small steps, with the same discretion as this ^7th arrondissement of grand avenues and ministries. In recent months, however, there has been a real acceleration. The chef could well be rewarded for his subtle, daily renewed performance, which appeals to his not-so-bourgeois audience. We wouldn't be surprised.