Visiting Lisbon: the best weekend addresses

FRIDAY

11 a.m. - Put down your suitcases at AlmaLusa Baixa/Chiado, right in the heart of a district on the move

In the heart of Lisbon, the AlmaLusa Baixa hotel has a tête-à-tête with Praça do Municipio, one of the most emblematic squares to visit in Lisbon, marking the imaginary border between the bohemian city of Baixa and the chic, fashionable Chiado district. Behind the façade of an 18th-century townhouse lie 28 rooms and suites. Owner Miguel Simões de Almeida, a keen decorator, has left nothing to chance. Decorated in the spirit of old aristocratic mansions, the light linen and stone floors, designed in collaboration with Lisbon-based interior designer Giano Gonçalves, are pierced by huge windows, letting the light dance on walls steeped in history. In the morning, in the restaurant's hushed atmosphere or on the terrace, caressed by the morning sun's timid rays, you can sample the delights of Portuguese cuisine, biting into a warm, crisp pastel de nata or swapping your classic butter toast for a fiambre (ham) and queijo (cheese) roll. Service, as discreet as it is attentive, adds to the magic of the place. The concierge, like a multilingual storyteller, passionately shares Lisbon's urban legends and hidden addresses.

The AlmaLusa's location is ideal for those wishing to explore Lisbon. The hotel is just a few steps from the treasures of Chiado, with its elegant boutiques and cafés steeped in history. And the nearby Bairro Alto promises lively nights and meetings over a glass of sparkling vinho verde to the sound of Fado.

Address: Alma Lusa Baixa/Chiado, Praça do Município n 21, 1100-365 Lisboa

Alternatives? Lisbon is now home to a number of hotels that make perfect weekend retreats. Among the hotels visited or tested and approved by the editors, let's mention the following:

• Santa Clara 1728: undoubtedly the most confidential in the Portuguese capital, one of the jewels of the Silent Living project. Just a stone's throw from the flea market, this magnificent 18th-century mansion has been transformed into an elegant boutique hotel by the renowned Portuguese architect Manuel Aires Mateus. No lobby, but a warm, home-like welcome and minimalist interiors in keeping with the sobriety of the location.
• The Palacio Belmonte,
• The Memmo Príncipe Real
• The One Palácio da Anunciada and many more...

12 p.m - Visit Lisbon and lose yourself in the narrow streets of Principe Real and Alfama

The vibrant districts of central Lisbon, Príncipe Real and Alfama, are best explored by wandering through the narrow streets. While a few steps are often all it takes to get away from the hordes of tourists who invade the city in high season, a break at Quiosque da Porta do Sol, a popular vantage point perched high above the city, offers a panoramic view of the city's rooftops. Take a shopping spree at Galerie Embaixada, a concept store nestled in a former mid-19th-century palace. Each room features the creations of young Portuguese artists and craftsmen: clothing, jewelry, design objects... Enough to last all day!

2 p.m. - Lunch at Prado, small plates of the highest quality

An emblematic place for the arrival of bistronomy in Lisbon, and an address that has never been empty since it opened. Behind the counter of this large room bathed in natural light and decorated with greenery, inventive Portuguese chef Antonio Galapito prepares a cuisine that is both simple and daring, particularly when it comes to fish and other seafood, all at very acceptable prices (plates from €5 to €28), not to mention one of the finest natural wine lists in the city!

PRACTICAL
35€ per person, drinks not included.
Address : Tv. Pedras Negras 2, Lisboa

4 p.m. - Discover Graça and Mouraria, two districts off the beaten track

Two less-frequented areas of the city, where you can linger mid-afternoon when you've had enough of the crowds. Located on Lisbon's highest hill, Graça is also one of its oldest districts. The main attraction? A tranquil park covering almost two hectares, with a garden offering a remarkable view of the old town.

Continue on to Mouraria, often overlooked by tourists - and therefore adored by locals - because of its shantytown past. The district, nestled beneath São Jorge Castle, is now one of Lisbon's top spots for street art enthusiasts. It's an open-air exhibition, with some great successes in the Parque de Estación de Chão do Loureiro (yes, it's a parking lot!). And for a bite to eat, there's an excellent vegan address here, The Food Temple (Beco do Jasmim 18).

7 p.m. - Sipping a cocktail on the rooftop of Rossio Gastrobar

As the sun sets, one of Lisbon's must-visit hot spots is the newly-renovated Art Deco rooftop Rossio Gastrobar. Behind the bar, you can order the excellent beverages of mixologist Flaviana Andrade and the chiselled small plates of Michelin-starred chef João Rodrigues.

Address : Rua 1 de Dezembro 120, Lisboa

9 p.m. - Dinner at Alma, an emblematic address of Lisbon's gastronomic dynamism

One of the city's hottest addresses is Alma, chef Henrique Sá Pessoa's two-starred restaurant. In the heart of Chiado, a dimly lit room with coppery highlights, two menus (land or sea) masterfully revisiting the classics of Lisbon gastronomy. Just a few examples to whet your appetite: melting octopus, sweet potato purée and coriander gel; carrots and bulgur with apricot and caper emulsion, ewe's milk cheese and cumin olive oil. A flawless dish.

Tasting menus cost €185.
Address : Rua Anchieta 15, Lisboa

But also :

• EPUR: you enter here as if in a showroom, with an open kitchen behind large bay windows, before sitting down in a room with a refined decor, where a warm, intimate atmosphere reigns. It's here that French Michelin-starred chef Vincent Farges serves up an evening's cuisine in the image of the place: refined and sophisticated. Carefully selected seafood (amberjack, pagre) and a four-step menu (or more if you prefer). During our visit, we tasted delicious supions sautéed with anchoïade, fish juice with fennel and green olives, and crab with granny smith apples and cumin oil. The recently awarded first star is richly deserved. Tasting menu from €120 in seven courses.
• Sala de Corte: here, meat is not just served, it's celebrated, crowned, quasi-sacralized! This place is listed among the "101 best steak restaurants in the world", and for good reason. Under the magical baton of chef Luis Gaspar, meat becomes a real star. Hailing from Galicia, Ireland, France or Japan, it proudly struts its stuff after a sojourn in the aging cellar, before browning in a Josper oven fueled by 100% vegetable charcoal. Entrecôtes, Picanha, T-Bone... the noblest cuts parade with panache on our plates. And to accompany them? Nothing less than truffled fries and piquillo peppers. From €32.

SATURDAY

10am - Walk the aisles of the Time Out Market

An emblematic street food venue in Lisbon, the first food hall opened in 2014 under the aegis of Time Out, well known for its urban magazines. Building on the success of its Portuguese address, the British publisher has rolled out the concept in North America (Miami, New York, Boston, Montreal, Chicago) and around the world.

The concept? A large covered market lined with small kiosks where you can stock up on local specialities - all tested beforehand by Time Out 's team of food critics - before taking a seat around one of the long wooden tables in the central aisle. Also known as the Mercado da Ribeira, this is the ideal place to explore the southern part of the city, and stroll through the Bica and Chiado districts. It's a little touristy, but convenient for travelers visiting Lisbon in groups.

Our recommendations? Marlene Vieira's small plates for a touch of traditional gastronomy and Caroline Eng and her husband's addictive doughnuts, sculpted like works of art by Crush Doughnuts.

Address : Avenue 24 de Julho 49, Lisboa

The alternative to the Time Out Market? If the crowds and the smell of street food don't tempt you in the morning, why not have breakfast in one of the trendy cafés nearby: Hello, Kristof, Dear Breakfast, Copenhagen Coffee lab...

2 p.m. - Taste the cuisine of young French prodigy Louise Bourrat at Boubou's

Away from the hustle and bustle, on a discreet street in the picturesque Príncipe Real district, a subdued room where you enter through a massive door, and a luminous patio out of sight. In the kitchen, talented Franco-Protuguese chef Louise Bourrat, barely 30 and winner of season 13 of Top Chef, has succeeded - a rare feat in Lisbon - in attracting a large daily clientele of regulars who come to (re)taste her inventive small plates and other signature dishes: oysters with garlic butter and borage, sweet potato ceviche, kefir and Thai spices, octopus with Spanish sauce to share... A sure bet, at any time of day.

PRACTICE Tasting menus from €85, drinks not included.
Address : Rua Monte Olivete 32, Lisboa

But also :

As for less expensive addresses than those listed above, Lisbon is fortunately home to a host of delicious addresses at less prohibitive prices:

• A Cevicheria: the best address for Peruvian-style ceviche. If the decor is already worth the detour, the essential is in the plate: tuna marinated in a lemony juice flavored with ginger, lemongrass and coconut juice, scallops with Iberian ham fat and black olive powder... Expect to wait a little, no doubt the price of success. From €18.90
• Sála de João Sá: chef's confidential address, where you'll find cuisine that's both simple in its composition and refined in its execution. The menu changes according to seasonal produce. Tasting menu: €90

3 p.m. - Visit LX Factory, the alternative space revolutionizing Lisbon's industrial zone

An alternative space (though perhaps less and less so), a perfect example of Lisbon's metamorphosis. Just below the arches of the April 25th bridge, this former industrial zone is home to boutiques, galleries, concert halls and conceptual restaurants. Not to mention a rich program of events throughout the year, punctuated by several music festivals.

Address : Avenue 24 de Julho 49, Lisboa

6:30 pm - Mingle with the crowd in one of Chiado's bars...

The Chiado district, the epicenter of Lisbon, is packed with bars and cafés to linger in when the heat dies down. Another option in the event of less clement weather - or if you're feeling hungrier - is a stopover at Bairro do Avillez, the must-visit address of serial chef José Avillez (with around ten restaurants to his credit, including the two-star Belcanto). Tapiscos, cheeses and local charcuterie are served in a trendy bistro atmosphere.

... or have a drink with the locals

And for those who'd like to enjoy a glass in peace off the beaten track, several wine bars have opened in the last two years, marking the arrival of natural wine in Lisbon, a trend that's definitely on the rise. Let's go to :

• Vino Vero, whose Venetian address is always busy, is opening a second wine bar and dining cellar full of Portuguese and Italian "natural" references
• Pigmeu, a wine bar whose cuisine is essentially based on pork specialties
• Senhor Uva, another fine address where you can witness the dynamism of the country's natural wine scene.

8 p.m. - Dinner at Ceia, Lisbon's chicest table d'hôte

At 8 p.m. sharp - no late arrivals accepted - we return to Santa Clara 1728, this time to experience an exclusive table d'hôte where only 14 guests gathered around a large wooden table will have the privilege of tasting a multi-stage blind menu (allow four hours at the table). Chef Pedro Pena Bastos , who sometimes invites other top chefs to join him on special evenings, sublimates the finest local produce, while sommelier Mario Marques proposes top-flight food and wine pairings. Early booking essential.

Expect to pay €100 per person, drinks not included.
Address : Campo de Santa Clara 128, Lisboa

SUNDAY

11 a.m. - Brunch at Varanda, the chic buffet at the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz

If you had to treat yourself to just one brunch during your entire stay, this would be it. The Ritz Lisbon, part of the Four Seasons chain, is a veritable museum-hotel, combining Art Deco influences, Louis XVI furniture, huge tapestries and collectables, not to mention breathtaking views of the Parc Edouard VII.

In this grandiose setting, the opulence of the buffet is also synonymous with distinction. From gourmet starters and fine pastries to delicately prepared traditional Portuguese dishes and stunning eggs Benedict, this is a brunch that almost makes you wish you had only one stomach.

Expect to pay €70 per person, drinks not included.
Address: Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 88, Lisboa

3 p.m. - Escape to Belém

When the pace of the city starts to become exhausting, head for Belém. Located just a few kilometers from Lisbon, it's easily reached by streetcar in fifteen minutes. Once you're there, you'll need to make some choices, as there are so many places to visit. Our advice? Take a stroll through the district, from the old patisserie to the Belém Tower. Along the way, don't miss the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, not forgetting the magnificent Jardim da Praça do Império.